Y-3 New York collection: Adidas redefines the visual codes of tennis culture

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Yohji Yamamoto’s collaboration with Adidas produced one of the most memorable tennis collections of the past decade, with the bold “dazzle camouflage” zebra print for the 2016 French Open sparking controversy at the time but ultimately achieving iconic status. Now, the Japanese designer reunites with the three-stripe brand to deliver a brand-new 18-piece range for men and women, set to debut at the 2025 US Open in New York. True to Yamamoto’s signature style, the designs are daring, unconventional, and sure to spark conversation. Let’s take a closer look at what makes this latest collection stand out.

What do we notice first when we look at the new Adidas Y-3 collection?

At first glance, we notice classic sporty silhouettes contrasted with dramatic, asymmetrically placed bursts of fire detailing. The pieces come in white, black, and dark purple, with embellishments that resemble untamed flames. At least that was my first impression. To you, does this accent look more like fire, or something else entirely?

Inspired by Suibokuga: The actual story of the Yohji Yamamoto collection

According to Adidas, the collection carries over Y-3’s Fall/Winter 2025 theme, featuring prints inspired by Suibokuga, the Japanese ink-painting technique, reimagined to evoke the rich textures and golden tones of fossilized amber.

One of the standout examples of Suibokuga-inspired look is the Y-3 Wow Dress, which Adidas highlights as the “hero piece” of the women’s collection. It features a high-cut neckline with a partially hidden zip and a distinctive keyhole slit on the back left side.

For those who prefer a more understated look, the Y-3 Wow Dress also comes in pure black, where the side slit adds a striking detail to an otherwise simple design.

The Adidas Women’s Y-3 Crop Long Sleeve is another item highlighted by the unique print.

Y-3 Skirt Jumper: Tennis gets a fashion shake-up

According to Adidas, the goal of the new collection is to “redefine the visual codes of tennis culture.” Over the years, the brand has repeatedly broken the mold of WTA fashion, from Caroline Wozniacki’s head-turning leotard at the 2023 US Open to Elina Svitolina’s long-sleeved dress with front armhole cutouts last year in New York.

This time, Adidas introduces the Women’s Y-3 Skirt Jumper, a piece reminiscent of wrestling attire. It’s a true novelty in women’s tennis fashion, here modeled by Maria Sakkari.

Performance-focused features

The clean, straight lines of the Y-3 apparel show pure precision, while unexpected asymmetric details and bold graphic treatments give tennis fashion a fresh, edgy twist. Made with Adidas’ CLIMACOOL technology, the fabrics wick and disperse sweat to keep players cool, dry, and focused. Thoughtful features like hidden front zippers for comfort, inner panties in skirt linings for ball storage, and built-in bras for support enhance both style and on-court performance.

Classic items in solid colors

While Yohji Yamamoto is known for pushing the boundaries of tennis fashion, this collection also includes plenty of classic pieces. Tanks, skirts, and dresses in solid black, white, and purple offer timeless silhouettes for those who prefer a more understated look. For example, Karolina Muchova wears the Adidas Women’s Y-3 Match Tank, simple yet distinctive with its keyhole accent on one side at the back, paired with the Adidas Women’s Y-3 Match Skirt in aurora plum. Similar shorts are also available in the same color.

Y-3 tennis shoes

The collection is rounded out with Y-3 shoes that blend performance with avant-garde design, perfectly matching the apparel’s edgy aesthetic. Key models include the Avacourt, Barricade, and Ubersonic.